Iruya is not your typical tourist destination. There are “only two things to do in town,” says van Hoeijen, and both involve steep hikes at high altitude. But if you’ve always wanted to travel back in time then it’s pretty hard to beat. While the town has definitely developed since the 18th century, its people still dress, eat and behave as if it were the 1950s. And, as van Hoeijen points out gleefully, it still doesn’t have high-speed internet — a major turnoff for the Instagram crowd. Being at the end of a 9,100-foot-high cul de sac makes it “feel like a bit of a hiding place from the rest of Argentina,” she adds. After the impromptu hula hoop show and quick lunch of locro, a thick squash stew that dates back to Incan times and comes highly recommended by locals, we follow a near vertical pathway to the Mirador del Condor (Lookout of the Condor). What would be a strenuous but totally doable walk is made considerably tougher by the thinness of the air. Fortunately, the views from the top more than justify the hardship. And that’s before a majestic Andean condor has conveniently soared past the mirador that bears its name. All the David Attenborough documentaries in the world cannot prepare you for the sight of a 30-pound bird with an 11-foot wingspan flying past your nose. (While we were more than satisfied with the views from the official mirador, for truly spectacular panoramas, van Hoeijen advises “walking straight past the sign that says ‘Forbidden for Tourists’ and going up an hour more!” But don’t say we sent you.) The second thing to do is a full-day hike, which might be a bit beyond some readers. While the trail to the nearby town of San Isidro de Iruya is relatively flat by Andean standards, it is also fairly long — 4 miles each way — and involves a lot of river crossings (read: soggy boots). For me, this was a small price to pay for the privilege of visiting a town that, even in the 21st century, is only accessible on foot. San Isidro, population 350, was only connected to the electrical grid in 2013 — but it still has a school, a soccer field, a church and a basic eatery that served what felt at the time like the best damned chicken leg I’d ever tasted. Iruya may only have two things to do. But here’s the thing: You don’t even have to do either of them to have a good time. I could wax philosophical about how a trip to Iruya will change your perspective and soothe your soul. Or you could follow van Hoiejen’s suggestion: “Hike every day and build campfires every night,” she advises. “And bring sufficient wine to share with all the new people you’re going to meet.” | 
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